In the evolving landscape of culinary literature, it’s easy to become stuck at a crossroads between historical reflection and urgent, modern mandates. Last week’s exploration of Christoph Ribbat’s In the Restaurant – as highlighted in “Reading the Restaurant” – offered one viewpoint. Ribbat’s work serves as a panoramic history, transforming the dining room into a laboratory of modern life where class, technology, and human drama intersect.
However, as that post suggested, finishing one book is merely an invitation to walk through a new threshold. To truly understand the “hidden” themes of contemporary dining, we must place Ribbat’s historical mosaic in direct conversation with the sharp, practical demands of the present. This brings us to a confrontation between the “theatre” of the past and the “survival guide” of the now.
Part II: The Clash of Theory and Practice
While Christoph Ribbat’s In the Restaurant provides the wide-angle lens of a historian – looking back at the invention of the “guest” and the military precision of Escoffier’s kitchen – Adam Reiner’s The New Rules of Dining Out acts as the high-definition field guide for the post-pandemic era. If Ribbat explores how the restaurant became a stage, Reiner is obsessed with how to keep that stage from collapsing under the weight of modern entitlement and economic fragility.
From Performance to Social Contract
Ribbat observes the “theatricality” of the dining room as a fixed sociological state. To him, the waiter is a performer wearing a mask of professional servitude. This is a classic “Front Stage” performance, where the guest is the audience and the staff are the players.
Adam Reiner, however, argues that this performance is currently in a state of crisis. His New Rules represent a radical shift from the traditional “customer is always right” philosophy toward a mutual social contract. Reiner’s commentary is urgent: he insists that the guest is no longer just a passive audience member but an active participant in the restaurant’s survival. In Reiner’s view, being a “good guest” is no longer about mere politeness; it is about earning your place at the table through empathy, punctuality, and an understanding of the industry’s razor-thin margins.
The Death of the “Restorative” Myth
Ribbat tracks the evolution of the restaurant from the 1760s “restoratives” – medicinal broths meant to heal the body. He notes how this evolved into “healing” the ego through luxury. Reiner’s work flips this script for the 2020s. In the New Rules, it is the diner who must act as the restorative force for the restaurant.
Reiner dives deep into the “uncomfortable” side of modern dining that Ribbat only brushes against:
- The Cancellation Crisis: Reiner argues that a “no-show” is not just a minor inconvenience but an act of economic sabotage. His rules demand that diners treat reservations like theater tickets – pre-paid and non-negotiable.
- The Service Charge Debate: While Ribbat notes the historical “paradox” of the waiter, Reiner focuses on the math. He advocates for the dismantling of the traditional tipping system in favor of transparent service charges that bridge the pay gap between the “Front of House” and the “Back of House”.
The Evolution of Labor: From Orwell to Accountability
Ribbat leans heavily on George Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris and London to illustrate the soul-crushing filth of the historical kitchen. It is a romantic, if gritty, look at the “plongeur.”
Reiner moves past the literary pathos of the suffering dishwasher and focuses on human sustainability. His commentary highlights the mental health crisis in the modern kitchen – the burnout, the substance abuse, and the toxic “brigade” culture that Ribbat treats as a historical artifact. Reiner’s “New Rules” demand that the diner acknowledge the humanity of the staff. He suggests that if you aren’t willing to pay a price that allows for a living wage and health insurance for that “backstage” crew, you shouldn’t be dining out at all.
Atmosphere vs. Algorithm
A fascinating point of contrast lies in the concept of “Atmosphere.” Ribbat discusses how 1920s Berlin cafes were designed to foster intellectualism. Reiner observes that modern atmosphere is often hijacked by the “TikTok-ification” of the dining room.
In the New Rules, Reiner addresses the friction caused by diners who prioritize “content” over “connection.” He calls for a return to presence, suggesting that the camera-first culture violates the social sanctuary that Ribbat describes as a “place of longing.” For Reiner, the “Rule” is simple: the restaurant is a place to eat and interact, not a studio for your personal brand.
The Verdict: Why Reiner is the Necessary “Fifth Course”
If we treat Ribbat’s book as a four-course meal of history, Reiner’s New Rules is the bitter espresso shot at the end – a sharp, necessary jolt of reality.
Ribbat tells us why we love restaurants (the longing for connection and status), but Reiner tells us how to ensure they still exist tomorrow. Ribbat looks at the “guest” as a historical construct; Reiner looks at the “guest” as a stakeholder.
When we read them synoptically, the conclusion is clear: the restaurant remains a most important stage in our social lives, but the script has changed. The “Society” Ribbat describes is no longer a hierarchy of service, but an ecosystem of mutual respect. To dine out today is to participate in a fragile miracle of logistics, and as Reiner suggests, the most important “New Rule” is acknowledging that you are part of the team, not just the person at the table.
When two books with a similar primary topic take very different directions, but both quote a foundational work from the 1960s, I sit up and take notice. Both of the books above did just that, and the resulting inquiry has yielded a companion, 4-piece series to the topic, exploring how food experiences reveal fundamental truths about social interaction, identity, and community through the lens of Erving Goffman’s dramaturgical sociology. Each article features one book while drawing on Goffman’s framework of social performance to unite the series.
Next week: The Regular’s Performance: How Informal Gathering Places Teach Us to Belong
Part of a regular series on 27gen, entitled Wednesday Weekly Reader.
During my elementary school years one of the things I looked forward to the most was the delivery of “My Weekly Reader,” a weekly educational magazine designed for children and containing news-based current events.
It became a regular part of my love for reading, and helped develop my curiosity about the world around us.
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