According to the Greek creation myth, we are so much spilt milk; a splatter of the goddess Hera’s breast milk became our galaxy, the Milky Way. But while mother’s milk may be the essence of nourishment, it is the milk of other mammals that humans have cultivated ever since the domestication of animals more than 10,000 years ago, originally as a source of cheese, yogurt, kefir, and all manner of edible innovations that rendered lactose digestible, and then, when genetic mutation made some of us lactose-tolerant, milk itself.

Before the industrial revolution, it was common for families to keep dairy cows and produce their own milk. But during the nineteenth century mass production and urbanization made milk safety a leading issue of the day, with milk-borne illnesses a common cause of death. Pasteurization slowly became a legislative matter. And today milk is a test case in the most pressing issues in food politics, from industrial farming and animal rights to GMOs, the locavore movement, and advocates for raw milk, who controversially reject pasteurization.

Profoundly intertwined with human civilization, milk has a compelling and a surprisingly global story to tell, and historian Mark Kurlansky is the perfect person to tell it. Tracing the liquid’s diverse history from antiquity to the present, he details its curious and crucial role in cultural evolution, religion, nutrition, politics, and economics.

Mark Kurlansky – renowned for his deep dives into singular subjects like cod, salt, and frozen foods – turns his keen eye to another ubiquitous food item in “Milk!: A 10,000 Year Food Fracas. This comprehensive exploration takes readers on a fascinating journey through the cultural, economic, and nutritional impacts of milk throughout human history.

Kurlansky begins by challenging our assumptions about milk, reminding us that for most of human existence, the consumption of animal milk was far from universal. He traces the origins of dairying back to around 10,000 years ago, coinciding with the advent of agriculture and animal domestication. This revolutionary change in human lifestyle set the stage for milk to become a significant part of our diet and culture.

The book delves into the biological aspects of milk production and consumption, explaining how humans developed the ability to digest lactose into adulthood – a trait not shared by all populations. This genetic adaptation played a crucial role in shaping migration patterns and cultural practices around the world.

Kurlansky doesn’t shy away from controversy, addressing the ongoing debates surrounding milk consumption. He presents various perspectives on milk’s nutritional value, its role in modern diets, and the ethical concerns surrounding industrial dairy farming. By doing so, he invites readers to think critically about their own relationship with this common food.

The global scope of Milk! is impressive. Kurlansky takes readers on a world tour spanning thousands of years, exploring how different cultures have incorporated milk into their culinary traditions. From the nomadic Mongolians and their fermented mare’s milk to the cheese-loving Europeans, the book showcases the diversity of dairy products and their cultural significance.

One of the book’s strengths is its examination of milk’s economic impact throughout history. Kurlansky details how milk and its derivatives became valuable commodities, influencing trade routes, economic policies, and even warfare. The rise of industrial dairy farming and its effects on traditional agricultural practices are also scrutinized.

The author doesn’t limit his focus to cow’s milk. He explores the use of milk from various animals, including goats, sheep, camels, yaks, and even reindeer, highlighting how different environments and cultures have shaped dairy consumption patterns.

Kurlansky’s narrative is enriched with anecdotes, historical recipes, and cultural tidbits that bring the story of milk to life. He discusses milk’s role in religion, literature, and art, demonstrating its pervasive influence on human culture.

The book also addresses contemporary issues surrounding milk production and consumption. Kurlansky examines the environmental impact of large-scale dairy farming, the rise of plant-based milk alternatives, and the ongoing debate about raw milk consumption.

Milk! is not just a history book; it’s a thought-provoking exploration of a food that has been both revered and controversial. Kurlansky’s engaging writing style makes complex scientific and historical concepts accessible to a general audience.

Milk!: A 10,000 Year Food Fracas offers readers a comprehensive and entertaining look at a food that many of us consume daily without much thought. By tracing milk’s journey from a revolutionary nutritional discovery to a global industry, Kurlansky invites us to reconsider our relationship with this seemingly simple food. Whether you’re a dairy enthusiast or a skeptic, this book provides valuable insights into the complex role milk has played in shaping human society.

I read it over breakfast with half and half in my tea and late at night with a cold glass of whole milk and a chocolate chip cookie – but that’s me!

Part of a regular series on 27gen, entitled Wednesday Weekly Reader.

During my elementary school years one of the things I looked forward to the most was the delivery of “My Weekly Reader,” a weekly educational magazine designed for children and containing news-based current events.

It became a regular part of my love for reading, and helped develop my curiosity about the world around us.